(This is the second part of chapter 19 of the Nicholas
Roerich's book Shambhala.)
Ladak
and Kashmir, Kangra and Lahoul, Kulu and Spiti are especially remarkable in
their historical, geological and scientific respects. Here tracing their paths
with achievement, have passed the Mahatmas and Rishis, the kings and heroes;
here are mentioned the names of Nagarjuna, Padma Sambhava and Santa Rakhshita.
Here
bloodshed occurred. Here were raised the cities and temples whose ruins still
adorn the mountain ranges of the Himalayas.
The
Himalayas, in their full might, cross these uplands; behind them, rises the
Kailasa and still farther, Karakorum and the mountain kingdom crowned in the
north by the Kuen Lun. Here also are the roads to the sacred Manasarowar Lake:
here are the most ancient paths of the sacred pilgrimage. In this region is
also the Lake of the Nagas, and the lake Ravalsar, the abode of Padma Sambhava.
Here also are the caves of the Arhats and the great abode of Siva, the Amarnath
Caves: here are hot springs; here are the 360 local deities, the number of
which testifies how essential are these very sites of the accumulation of human
thought through many ages.
But
Kashmir is isolated, and so is Ladak. Naked rocks are massed together in Lahoul
and Spiti. The summer heat there is excessive, and cruel is the winter frost.
Not
safe is the eruptive soil of beautiful Kangra, and in neighboring Mandi there
are also many ruins of past earthquakes. After the great earthquake of 1905, a
Japanese geologist specially invited to investigate the condition of the soil,
found that the earthquake belt passes through Kangra.
But
between severe Spiti and Lahoul on one side, and the unsafe Kangra and Mandi on
the other, north of Simla, along the river-bed Beas, lies the ancient valley of
Kulu. This is the same Beas or Hypathos which was the boundary of Alexander the
Great’s aspirations. On this river the conqueror stopped. The same river
Hypathos is also connected with the name of Apollonius of Tyana.
Through
Amritsar the railway leads to the Pathankote terminal. An hour before one
reaches this small place, there already appear on the northeastern horizon the
snowy mountains. From Pathankote one can go by motor, along the widing road
through Palampur Kangra, Mandi, where the rocks are decorated with sharp
outlines of ancient ruins. A railway is now slowly being laid in this
direction. At present it has reached Joggin-dar-Naggar. The survey has been
carried up to Mandi. But the Silver Valley of Kulu does not yet want to
exchange its free motor road for iron bars.
Kulu
Valley
Through
Kulu Valley passes the ancient road to Ladak and Tibet. And inhabitants of the
valley, ages ago, valued the beneficent properties of this extraordinary place.
Chota
and Bara Bhagal mountain ranges, parallel to the Himalayas, separate Kulu
Valley from Kangra, serving beneficially in two most important respects.
Apparently these mountain ranges protect Kulu from the earthquake belt, for in
Kulu no earthquakes equal to those of neighboring Kangra are remembered. There
have been shocks, but with no disastrous consequences. Likewise, the altitude,
estimated by General Bruce as about twenty thousand feet, protects Kulu from
excessive monsoons.
Although
in Dalhousie and Kangra, the monsoon approaches one hundred and twenty inches,
in Kulu it reaches forty inches, providing all the advantages of a dry climate.
And whereas in Kangra the heat reaches up to one hundred and ten degrees
Fahrenheit, in Kulu no more than eighty degrees Fahrenheit are reported. Of
course this data varies according to altitude, as on the terraces above the
foaming Beas, one can find areas from five to ten thousand feet high.
In
the higher places there is naturally only one harvest but in the lower fields
two harvests are the rule, and even lands slightly cultivated give unusual
yield. Almost all kinds of European and American apples, pears, cherries,
plums, nectarines, peaches and apricots, nuts and a large variety of berries
and medicinal plants, provide the yield of this fertile valley.
The
Civil Engineer, Mr. Bernatzki, who came to this valley for a couple of days and
has now remained for more than six years, says that he has tested two hundred
and thirty-five kinds of plants in the Kulu Valley, and all the tests were
convincingly successful. North of Kulu, in the eternal snows, shine the ranges
of the Himalayas reminiscent, in their whiteness, of the special conditions
surrounding these extraordinary sites.
It
has been pointed out that electric and magnetic phenomena are especially
pronounced on these heights. The latter provide exceptional possibilities for
the study of special currents, and one may imagine what new researches could be
made here by our great physicist Millikan to further his recent glorious
discoveries.
It
is remarkable how all the collected information augments the significance of
these places, where fertility of soil combines with the unusual phenomena of
height and with an historical heroic past.
* * *
Let
us hear what is said of Kulu by other travelers, such as the explorer of the
Himalayas and the leader of the Mount Everest expedition, General Bruce and
Captain Enriquez, who toured the whole of Kulu and its surroundings; and A. H.
Franke, the well-known explorer of these places; and the doctors A. R. and K.
M. Heber; and let us remember H. L. H. Shuttleworth who enthusiastically wrote
about Kulu in the Geographical
Magazine and whose brother spoke on the antiquities of this valley
in the University of Boston, calling Kulu the “Silver Valley.”
General
the Honorable C. G. Bruce writes the following, in his book “Kulu and Lahoul”:
Our introduction to the true Kulu Valley the
previous day had been very pleasant. The walk from Sultanpur to Katrain, though
by no means equal in beauty to the higher marches of Kulu, is very
characteristic, the broad and not too rapid Beas resembling a salmon river. The
great groves of alder trees fringing the banks, the wide open slopes of the
hillsides, also an unfamiliar hillfolk thronging the roads, with a fair
sprinkling of Tibetan and Lahouli traders, were all full of interest to us.
The Beas is spanned by a number of excellent
bridges, so that we could have traveled along either bank. The view is as fine
from one as the other.
During some of our marches we passed two or
three of the best known of the Kulu fruit-gardens, but were unable to see
anything of them as yet, though we did later on. Given good means of
transportation, the fruit industry of Kulu should thrive wonderfully. The few
Europeans who have settled in the valley and have taken up fruit-farming
produce excellent results. They raise the best of apples and pears, equal to
any in the world, and this with probably the least amount of labor. When,
however, one considers that all the fruit has to be sent about an hundred and
fifty miles to the nearest railway it is evident what a handicap the trade
suffers. For instance, several kinds of the fruit most prized in India, such as
cherries, currants and peaches, suffer so much in transit that it is not worth
while cultivating them for the market, only in small quantities for home
consumption.
Shortly before our arrival at Katrain, after
passing Mr. Donald’s fruit-farm at Dobi, we crossed the Phyrang River and had a
really beautiful view up that valley. As is natural in early May, all the upper
grazing grounds and minor points were still under snow, and the contrast
between the splendid dark masses of the typical Kulu forest and white tops on a
day full of color was a very pleasant and striking sight.
One would think that there must be a great
sameness in well-cut, well-wooded valleys backed by snowy mountains. Kashmir is
full of them, so are all analogous regions, but, for all that, each has its own
distinct character, and this particular view I should never take for one in
Kashmir. It was completely new, a type of its own. Opposite Katrain, on the
left bank of the river, we could see Naggar Castle, the residence of the
Assistant-Commissioner of Kulu, besides several other buildings, evidently
beautifully placed, and commanding, we felt sure, an outlook which at our lower
level was barred from our view. It is wonderful to imagine any seat of
Government having such a magnificent sight always before it.
The coloring of the Kulu Valley is almost
impossible to express in words. Artists should make it their own as they have
so often done with regard to Kashmir. But again I repeat the Kulu color is in a
class alone, and this richness and brilliance gives a charm and character
peculiar to itself.
Having once tasted the flavor of Kulu, both
in beauty and interest, I found it very hard to turn my back on it (pp. 16-17).
The descent on the Kulu side was simply
perfect… It was far enough on in September for the autumn tints to have touched
the higher levels with gorgeous color, and the forest below in its dark tones
only served better to throw up the rich green left by the rains. There were
numbers of Tibetan encampments on the flats on the way down, always picturesque
with their blue-topped tents. I have seldom enjoyed a march more than the five
last miles into Rahla. Kulu was at its best… We had a fine view of the redoubtable
peak ‘M’ . . . The valley to the south was perfect. The crops were just
ripening and the mixture of the crimson of the amaranth fields gave the richest
possible effect, a welcome note of color after the more neutral tones of
Lahoul. I do not think I ever saw a mass of colors as on our walk down.
The Kulu peasants all round may not be very
good at working their country, but they certainly grow magnificent crops. The
fields, too, are well watered. The soil, no doubt, is very fine and amply
rewards the slightest attention, but what a living really hard-working Alpine
peasants would make out of such a country! The people will not even travel if
they can help it, and have no desire to better themselves in any way. They can
get all they really require at a minimum of exertion. ... I am not blaming them
in particular, if they have all they desire and are happy, as is apparently the
fact. I am only regretting the more or less wasted possibilities of such a
country…
Whether by accident or from possessing a real
sense of the beautiful, whoever built the average Kulu temple very seldom made
a mistake in the selection of sites; they are nearly always well placed. After
leaving the temple, a full two thousand feet of steep ascent leads at last to
the main valley of the Hamta, and the path winds through beautiful forests and
open glades, deep in grass and full of flowers, even as late as the time of our
visit. The right bank of the valley is very precipitous and finely sculptured,
and is the habitat of many tahr, a species of Himalayan wild goats…
We passed over some splendid grazing grounds
on our way down and beat a great deal of open birch jungle for pheasants…
Besides rich undergrowth, there were many flowers, especially great groves of
pink balsams eight feet high, with stems as thick as a man’s wrist. The
surroundings were splendid and the color very fine. Much oak, too, of a dusky
coppery hue, which showed up most effectively against the autumn tints, for the
hillsides above the forest were all colors, the grasses and shrubs all turning
and adding every description of red and yellow and russet. ... It is always a
pleasant ride or walk by the side of the Beas, passing continuously through
great glades of fine alders—finer ones I have never seen…
At the time of the great emigration, when all
the flocks of sheep are driven over the Rohtang and Hamta Passes up to the blue
grazing-grounds of Lahoul, and the Lingti plains and of Spiti, there must be
about two hundred thousand sheep driven through Kulu, irrespective of local
sheep owned by Kulu peasants. I have heard a considerably higher estimate, but
am probably not far wrong in the round number I have given…
The approach to Naggar from Katrain is
charming. Here the main stream of the Beas is crossed by an excellent suspension
bridge and the valley is broad and park like, and the alder groves splendid. A
shady lane leads up to Naggar castle. In former times it was the royal center
of Kulu, but the capital was moved to Sultanpur. Naggar is beautifully
situated, a good height above the river and valley, over which it has a wide
view. It is also of greater importance than Sultanpur. Naggar is said to have
been the seat of the Rajahs of Kulu for over sixty reigns, the present castle
having been built out of the ruins of the ancient place.
It is a very fine old pile, constructed of
age-darkened timbers and stone, but guiltless of mortar. Three stories in
height it stands in an imposing manner, behind it is the oak temple and around
it a gay flower garden. At this time of the year the color both of the garden
beds and the surrounding country was simply brilliant, and not only the flowers
and fields, but every roof of the peasants’ houses glowed with the rich amber
of Indian corn spread there to dry, and below the crimson of the amaranth swept
the valley in broad touches, while the blue indigo of distant hillside and
forest were lighted with the yellow of the turning trees and grass. Snowy peaks
completed the picture.
We were lucky enough to see both spring and
autumn views, and although the snow on the hillsides in the earlier season
gives a greater contrast and shows up the forest and valley, still we both
agreed in preferring the autumn coloring. I have never seen anything so
brilliant on so large a scale.
Captain
C. M. Enriquez says the following in his book “The Realm of the Gods”:
Naggar is a large village. The gardens are
filled with roses, fruit trees and vegetables. The pears and apples of Kulu are
famous. There are strawberries, artichokes, cabbages, asparagus, rhubarb and
salads all growing up well. In the valley there are deodars, alders and fruit
trees; and on the mountains, coming right down to the vale are deodars (pinus
excelsa) and blue pines (kial). Glorious snows completely encircle this favored
spot. Many of the surrounding peaks are fourteen thousand feet high. Those up
the valley, shutting out Lahoul, are considerably higher; and Ghepan’s Peak is
nearly twenty thousand. The last winter’s snowfall had been the heaviest known
for years, and even the Bubu Pass, which is only ten thousand feet, is not yet
open for pony traffic. Naggar is five thousand, nine hundred feet above sea
level.
Such is Kulu, a land of great beauty, cool
breezes and luscious fruit—an ideal holiday ground. Trout are breeding in its
streams. There are chicore and munal innumerable on the hills. Four kinds of
pheasants can be shot. There are dozens of black bear in the forests; and below
the snows you can get tar, gurul and red bear. The red bear are not as
plentiful as they were, but a good Kulu sportsman assured me that other kinds
of game were now more plentiful than they used to be twenty years ago… For the
artist Kulu offers unlimited scope, and the naturalist will be delighted with
the butterflies and birds of paradise. Leading out from the main valley there
are endless miles of wooded uplands to explore.
There are few parts of Kashmir, which are
more attractive than the upper portions of Kulu.
In
A. H. Francke’s “Antiquities of India and
Tibet” we read the following:
Let me now add a few notes on Mandi,
collected from Tibetan historical works. There can exist no reasonable doubt as
regards the identification of the Tibetan Zahor with Mandi; for on our visit to
Ravalsar we met with numerous Tibetan pilgrims, who said that they were traveling
to Zahor, thereby indicating the Mandi State, if not the town. In the biography
of Padma Sambhava, and in other books referring to his time, Zahor is
frequently mentioned as a place where this teacher (750 A.D.) resided. The
famous Buddhist teacher Santa Rakhshita, who went to Tibet, was born in Zahor.
Again in the days of Ral-pa-can (8oo A.D.) we
find the statement that during the reigns of his ancestors many religious books
had been brought to Tibet from Gya (India or China), Li, Zahor and Kashmir. Zahor
was then apparently a seat of Buddhist learning and it is even stated that
under the same king, Zahor was conquered by the Tibetans. But under his
successor, the apostate King Langdarma, many religious books were brought to
Zahor, among other places, to save them from destruction.
Among the Tibetans there still prevails a
tradition regarding the existence of hidden books in Mandi, and this tradition
in all probability refers to the books above mentioned. Mr. Howell, Assistant
Commissioner of Kulu, told me that the present Thakur of Kolong, Lahoul, had
once been told by a high lama from Nepal, where the books are still hidden.
Unfortunately the Thakur had entirely forgotten the name of the place.
My enquiries on the spot were of no avail, as
none of the lamas and Tibetan laymen could or would tell where the books were
concealed. I can suggest only one way of finding out the truth (or otherwise)
of the tradition. A reward in money might be offered to the Thakurs of Kolong
in order to induce them to make another attempt to find the old books.
And
two doctors, A. R. and K. M. Heber in their book “In Himalayan Tibet,” refer to Kulu in the following way:
Our further travels through Kulu and Mandi
State are in better known regions, and need no description here, save that one
cannot refrain from referring to the country there as one of the most beautiful
handiworks of our Creator.
_ _ _
In
such enthusiastic words the experienced explorers describe the beautiful Kulu
Valley.
Silver
Valley! Silver ore is brought. Antimony is brought. Many chemical processes
have taken place underneath the fertile soil.
The
great Arjuna laid a subterranean passage from Naggar to Manikaran—from the
Silver Valley to the Fiery Spring.
In
Bajaura there is an old temple, the origin of which is attributed to Buddhist
times. It is said that the Blessed Rigden-jyepo, pursuing his enemies from the
side of Ladak, captured and destroyed them at Bajaura. Thus this great name is
connected with the Kulu Valley.
The
village of Manali has received its name from the first law-giver—Manu. On the
rocks of Lahoul are two images, a man and a woman, about nine feet high. A
legend concerning these images states that they are the ancient inhabitants of
this place. The same legend, as is well known, also surrounds the gigantic
images of Afghan Bamian. Thus many great traditions are connected with the
ancient valley of Kulu. And the Pandavas themselves, after the great war of the
Mahabharata, regarding Naggar as the best site, settled there. On the high hill
above the Thata temple can be seen ruins of the castle of these great warriors.
The
Kulu Valley has its hero-protector—Narasimha, a Rajput Raja. A beautiful legend
surrounds the name of Narasimha. The Raja had to flee from Rajputana. As a
humble coolie the learned ruler hid in the Kulu Valley. Under the mantle of a
simple worker he hid his identity but his great erudition did not permit him to
remain unnoticed. The light of his justice and knowledge shone over his
neighbors. The people guessed that no ordinary man had come among them and they
of their own free will accepted Narasimha as their Raja.
The ruins of the
castle of Narasimha still stand, in Naggar and an image of the hero is erected
under an old deodar. According! to legends, Narasimha protects the Kulu Valley.
And woe to him, who evokes the just anger of the hero Raja. As a majestic
white-bearded seer he is said to visit his country by night and many people
have seen him and have been blessed by the ruler.
Narasimha
protects the rich harvests. He fills the valley with fragrant flowers, and at
the will of the hero, the trees are covered with luscious fruits. Now he will
protect Urusvati, our Himalayan Research Institute!
And
above the image of Narasimha rises the white summit of the Guru Guri Dhar—the
path of the Spiritual Teacher.
Naggar,
1929.
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